Fri, 5 April 2013
Vertical Climbed: 842 meters (2,763 feet)
Rating: 4.1
Iconic summit dominating the Gresivaudan valley and the town of Crolles. Steep skiing with exposure adding to the mix.
From the winter parking (1220 meters - 1410m later in the spring). Follow a trail that joins the summer car parking that cuts the road a number of times. At the last left hand hair-pin (1390m) cut NE to join a clearing then climb the large SW facing face under the cliffs of the Dent de Crolles. At 1800 meters traverse SE under cliffs to the climb the couloir of the Pas de l'Œille. You will see a characteristic pinnacle (the Œille). Join the summit plateau and climb the 30 meters to the summit cross (danger cliffs).
Descent by the same route
Comments on route: SW Face: 30 degrees over 450 meters Pas de l'Œille: 38°/100m, passages at 45° but maximum exposure. The Pas de l'Œille ideally should be tackled under stabilized powder or spring snow conditions. The couloir and traverse are above huge cliffs. Any fall that is not immediately controlled will prove fatal. The steepest part of the couloir is more shaded than the rest of the slope and transforms about an hour later. The SW slopes are skiable from around 11am in Spring.
Access: Grenoble > exit St Nazaire les Eymes > Col du Coq
Equipment: Crampons
Country: France Area: Chartreuse Trailhead: Col Du Coq
Description: Climb as for the Dent de Crolles. At 1770m traverse to the SE into the ravin of la Gorgette. There is a narrow section just after the initial funnel. Exit via the forest trail to the car park at 1220m. The bottom loses snow quickly. The whole route is threatened by rockfall.
Rating: 4.3/E3
Orientation: South-East
Vertical: 550