Sat, 30 March 2013
Vertical Climbed: 940 meters (3,084 feet)
Rating: 4.2
Climb
From the Station du Granier, when the resort is open you are not allowed to climb on the ski runs. This is pretty strictly controlled by the pisteurs. However from the village of Tencovaz a path leads up through the forest on the north side of the Frasses drag lift. At around 1400 meters trace diagonal south to rejoin the path that leads from the top of the lifts. The forest is fairly widely spaced. If the resort is shut climb to the top of the lift system and take a path that leads from the top pylon into the forest. As you exit the forest the zone directly above the lift system is avalanche prone, this line is also dense with brushwood. Instead climb to the north of this area as high as possible in the forest. You exit the forest around 1650. Climb up to the base of the cliffs. There are two possibilities, either the south couloir or north couloir. The north couloir direct is very steep and the traverse to the central couloir via the summer trail is exposed. It is better to traverse to the south couloir at the base of cliffs as this gives a better line for the ascent. Climb the south couloir to a suspended slope, traverse 50 meters to the north and climb this bowl to the cliffs just under the plateau. You can reach the plateau by a traverse either to the left or right (easier).
Climb northwards to the summit via a flat traverse.
Descent
The descent is via the same route as you climbed. The entrance is 400 meters north of pt 1933. Be very careful about route finding as there are 4 or 5 likely looking couloirs all of which lead to steep cliffs. Normally you only have to follow your tracks but if the visibility is poor or there are lots of tracks it can be confusing. Ski down the central couloir to the small cliffs baring the exit then traverse south to find the exit couloir. Avoid skiing directly above the ski resort as this slope is avalanche prone, instead enter the woods by the way you climbed, avoiding the brushwood area, at 1400m traverse back to the ski runs.
Comments on route: A single ticket available at the lift office The "barres de Tencovaz" are the final cliff complex. They present 100m of difficulties. Slopes of 35° to 50°, narrow sections and small cliffs if the snow cover is poor. The face doesn't see much sun: watch out for crusty or icy snow. There are crevasses (potholes) on the summit plateau
Access: Chambery -> D912 -> Col du Granier -> Tencovaz Grenoble -> A41 -> Pontcharra Exit -> Chapareillon -> col du Granier
Equipment: Crampons, Ice Axe, Maybe a 20m length of 8mm rope for any small cliffs.
Country: France Area: Chartreuse Trailhead: Tencovaz
