Sun, 8 September 2024
Vertical Climbed: 2,620 meters (8,596 feet)
Vertical Descended: 2,622 meters
Rating: 5
Nice makes an excellent base for road cycling, particularly outside the main summer season. The Mediterranean moderates the climate, while the foothills of the Southern Alps rise almost immediately behind the city. Within a relatively short distance it is possible to leave the coast behind and ride into the deep valleys and mountain roads of the Alpes-Maritimes.
This ride heads north from Nice into the Vésubie valley before climbing to the sanctuary of the Madone d’Utelle. From the Promenade des Anglais the route leaves Nice towards the Var valley before turning inland towards the Vésubie. The surroundings become progressively more mountainous as the road enters the narrow gorge.
Near Duranus is the Saut des Français, a viewpoint high above the river. The name, literally the "Leap of the French", refers to a rather grim episode in local history when Barbets, armed groups active during the revolutionary period, are said to have thrown prisoners from the cliffs into the gorge below.
A few kilometres further on is Saint-Jean-la-Rivière, where the climb to the Madone d’Utelle begins. The ascent is around 15km long with nearly 900m of climbing, giving an average gradient of approximately 6%. The first section is relatively regular, climbing through olive groves and scattered houses at around 5-6%.
The road eventually reaches the old village of Utelle. From here there are roughly 6km remaining to the sanctuary and the road becomes narrower and more mountainous. A series of hairpins gains height above the village, with increasingly open views towards the surrounding peaks.
There is very little development on this upper section and the road feels considerably more remote than its proximity to Nice might suggest.
The sanctuary of the Madone d’Utelle stands at 1,174m on a broad summit ridge. There are extensive views across the surrounding valleys and towards the higher peaks of the Mercantour and Southern Alps.
On this visit in mid-March the road was dry and completely free of snow, including the upper section. There was still snow on the higher surrounding mountains. Conditions at this altitude can obviously vary considerably from year to year, particularly early in the season.
The descent follows the same road back to Saint-Jean-la-Rivière. From there it is possible to take a lower road through the Vésubie gorge, running closer to the river and passing through several short tunnels.
Rather than returning directly to Nice, this route adds another climb through Colomars towards Bellet, in the hills above the city. It is a surprisingly hard finish, with around 8km of climbing and some short sections approaching 20%. Bellet is also one of France's smallest wine appellations, its vineyards occupying the sunny slopes above the Var valley. From Bellet, quiet roads descend back towards Nice and eventually rejoin the Mediterranean near the Promenade des Anglais.
It makes for an interesting early-season mountain ride: a substantial Alpine climb, the impressive Vésubie gorge and a surprisingly rural landscape despite starting only a short distance from the centre of Nice.
-- Emma Cole
Mid-March. Roads were dry and snow-free as far as the Madone d’Utelle at 1,174m. Snow remained on the higher surrounding summits.
