Ferrouillet Pointe Centrale Nord By The South west Couloir
Follow the lac de Crop? path. Above the lake after followingthe walking trail for a few hairpins cross a scree field to the lac bleu. Here you will see a large cliff face with a waterfall in the middle. There is a couloir to the right (humid, not reccomended) and a diagonal fault to the left. Climb a scree slope and cross the waterfall (danger wet rocks or ice) and enage in the fault. The climb is easy over grass at first but be careful if this is wet. There are then two steps of climbing grade 3.x. The route is not exposed, the holds are clear but the rocks are cold and covered in moss.
At the top of the cliffs continue up a rock covered slope veering to the left until you reach cliffs then turn left (north) to climb a valley to the ecol du Ferrouillet. From here there are views over the Grandes Rousses range and the northern Belledonne. From the col it is a 5 minute scramble up grassy slopes to a sub-summit. You can then traverse another col to climb rocky slopes to the Pointe Central Nord and its impressive summit cairn.
Return is either by the route you climbed (you will need to fix a cord to assure the descent) or via the steep south-west couloir that you passed as you traversed around the lac Bleu. Follow the valley that you climbed down the right hand side. About 200 meters below the summit a grassy couloir opens to the right. Follow this down. The slope is steep and an ice ax is a good idea to assure your steps on the humid and slippery grass. After about 100 meters there is a rock step. You can climb down this on the right bank but it is hard to find anywhere to fix a rope to assure your progress. On the left bank you will find some small spikes where you can set up a rappel. It is also possible to climb unroped down a chimney at the far left but again this is exposed.
After the step there is a snow field then the couloir becomes rocky and the slope lessens, the main danger is over but take care. The whole couloir is threatened by occassional rockfall and a helmet (and care) is required. You return to the lac Bleu where you can pick up the path to the west if one of the "Belledonne fogs" has rolled in.
|Summit||Ferrouillet Pointe Centrale Nord|
|Maps||Carte IGN Top 25 3335 ET Bourg d'Oisans|
|Markings||red/white to the lac de Crop then occasional cairns|
|Equipment||Helmet, good boots, rope, ax|
|Road Access||Grenoble > Brignoud > Laval > Prabert > Pré de l'Arc > Pont de la Betta car park (1300m)|
|Time||3-4hours for the climb, 2-3 hours for the descent|
|Refuges||Ferrouillet?, refuge de Jean-Collet?|
25th July 2007
Page last modified on July 26, 2007, at 08:58 PM